The Chocolate Crow Trader have a free pattern in each edition.  We thought you may care to browse through an archive of previously offered free patterns.

You may make these patterns for fun and profit, however, please give a little plug to the talented designers.

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FRIENDS HEART

Saltbox Mercantile

 

EASTER BLESSINGS STITCHERy

Appleberry Farm

 

PUNCHNEEDLE HEART

MAKE-DO WITH

CROW & STAR

Countin' Crows

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PUMPKIN MAKE-D0

 

     
 

 

Pattern kindly donated by Deb Gough,

Crafty Ole' Crow

 

 

 

 

TAKE TIME TO SMELL THE

FLOWERS CUSHION

 

     

 

     
 

 

Pattern kindly donated by Kerry Daly,

Primitive Country Treasures

 

 

 

RABBIT

 

 

 

Pattern kindly donated by Deb Gough - Crafty Ole' Crow

 

 

 

ZARA'S BAG

 

 

 

Pattern kindly donated by Katherine Falco

 

REQUIREMENTS :

20cm Floral Fabric

20cm Tie Dyed Fabric

15cm Checked fabric

2 x 4.5cm Flower motives

Matching cotton thread

Sewing needle

Thick Cardboard

Safety Pin

Sharp scissors

Cutting Mat and rotary cutter

Basic sewing supplies

INSTRUCTIONS

Thank you for choosing to make my bag.  You can make this bag to suit your own style, just by choosing the right fabric. I hope you enjoy making it.

Abbreviations W.S.T- Wrong sides together R.S.T- Right Sides Together

There is a ¼” seam allowance.

At all times the patchwork technique used is that the seams are sewn on the outside.

Preparation

Pre wash your fabric first to allow for shrinkage and then press.  Read all my instructions carefully before starting.  Using your cutting mat and rotary cutter cut out 21 - 2 ½ x 2 ½ inch squares out of your floral front fabric and cut 6 – 2 ½” x 2 ½” squares from your tie dyed fabric. Then cut out 27 of the same size squares out of your inside checked fabric.  With the tie dyed plain fabric, make sure that you don’t cut any extra squares as you will need the left over material to cover the cardboard.

Bag

Place the outside fabric square on top of the inside fabric square.  When you are choosing the inside fabric, have in mind that this colour is going to be seen through to the front.  If it has a print on one side, place with wrong sides together.  You should have 27 squares with two in each. 

Using your diagram on the pattern sheet place your squares out, so they are positioned in the order you intend to sew. Place the pairs of squares, with two sets together. (Remember at all times the patchwork technique used for sewing the bag, makes the seam edges on the outside of the bag). Sew down one side using a ¼” seam allowance (PHOTO).  I found it better to then clip your seams as you go (PHOTO).  Clip along using a sharp pair of scissors, along the raw edges making each space ¼” apart.  You can also sew all your squares together and then clip when you have completed sewing the bag.  Join all your squares together, first of all doing them row by row, then sewing one row to the other (still clipping as you go).  Join together your picture One and Two, which is your front and back.  Now sew together the squares as shown in picture three (doing one only) for your bag sides and base. 

Bag Construction

Pin together your front and back to the sides and bottom piece.  Starting from where the A is marked match up the A’s together, pin one side at a time.  Sew down, still sewing so that the seam edges sit on the outside. Sew three squares down (to where B is marked on pattern) finish off ¼” before the bottom; this is to make the corner. Then making sure that the corners are sitting right and the seams match up, start sewing again, three squares along the bottom (to where C is marked).  Repeat this process, by progressing up the other side, (to where D is marked). Do the same to attach the other sides together. Once again clip all your seams.  On the raw top edge of the bag, sew ¼” from the edge around the bag top to neaten all the raw edges.  When finished clip along the edge as well.

Handles

From your floral fabric cut four 2 ½ cm x 60cm strips of the tie dyed fabric and two strips the same size from your floral fabric.  Place two plain fabric strips with one plain strip, so that they are on top of each other.  Place so that the floral fabric is in the middle and they are all matched up evenly.  Do this with the other three strips as well.  Knot the ends on both lots, so that the knot is 4cm from the end. Using a safety pin, put it through the knot and onto a pillow to secure, this is so that you can plait the strips together easily.  Start plaiting your strips, plait 30cms from the knot and then knot the end to finish off.  Do this with your other strips as well.  Trim the ends so there is 2cm at the end and cut two even nicks into the ends to look like tassels.  Find the middle of the two top end squares on both sides and mark with a pencil and just below your sewing line on the top edge mark as well to match up (follow diagram).  Place your knot where marked and then using a needle and sewing thread with a knot on the end, start from the inside of the bag and go to the front and then through the knot, back down through the bag and to the inside, repeat this until the knot is firmly secure to the bag.  Make sure that the plaited handle is not twisted and attach the other end to the other side of the bag.  Do the same to attach the other handle on the opposite side as well.

Shaggy Look

Making sure that you have clipped all your raw seams, wet your bag and rinse of any excess water and dry in the dryer to create the shaggy look.  You may like to repeat this process to make it really shaggy.

Finishing Off

Using your flower motives pin them in place on the middle squares and then using your thread and needle hand sew them onto the bag.  Trim any threads or extra bits of fabric to neaten.  Iron your bag, so that the two sides have folds to look like the photo.  Cut a piece of cardboard 15cm x 5cm and make sure that it fits the inside of the bag.  Do so before you cover it, just in case you have to trim to make it fit.  Using the left over tie dyed material cut a piece that is an inch larger all round, than the cardboard. Using craft glue, fold the excess material over the sides and glue down.  Allow to dry and then place with good side up inside the bag.   Now you have finished “Zara’s Bag”, I hope that you get plenty of use out of it. 

Regards,

Katherine

 

 

Rhegan Bear

 

 

Pattern kindly donated by Katherine Falco

 

REQUIREMENTS :

A handsome chenille bear, perfect for a little boys room, gift or to admire in your own home.

23cm square piece of chenille

Tan Rit Dye, coffee or tea

Fibre fill

Crochet thread

2 small black beads

Pencil or marker

Dolls needle

Black embroidery thread

Basic sewing requirements

Finished height of Rhegan when finished is 16cm.

Preparation

Abbreviations R.S.T- right sides together R.S.O- right side out.

You can dye the chenille first or after you have made the whole bear.  So first of all prepare the chenille, I have used Tan Rit dye, follow the instructions on the packet and then dry in the dryer.  You can also coffee dye him when you have finished the bear.  Trace your pattern pieces onto paper or cardboard and cut out, making sure you copy all the markings and openings where indicated.  Double your chenille with R.S.T and pin your pattern pieces onto the fabric, drawing the pattern pieces as you go, draw on 1 head, 1 body, 1 paw, 2 ears, 2 arms and 2 legs, once again mark your openings. Take the pattern pieces off and pin where your pattern was, so they don’t move when you are sewing or cutting them.  Cut the head and paws on the traced line. Sew the other body parts on the traced line using a small sewing stitch(1 to 2). Cut around the body pieces leaving a ¼” seam allowance where shown.  With the legs sew only where shown, as there are two openings and cut out with seam allowances all the way around the leg (where shown). Cut the bottom of the leg on the line (this is where the foot pad goes).  Cut out on single material your muzzle.

Head and Body

Place the two head pieces with R.S.T. sew down a seam at the front of the teddy from A to B  (shown on pattern).  Leaving the head pieces with R.S.T, pin the gusset into place by pinning the centre front of the gusset to the tip of the nose.  Stitch the gusset into place by sewing down one side of the head starting at the top of the nose going over the head and down to the neck.  Do the same to the other side.  Clip the curves and turn R.S.O.  Stuff the head and body so they are firm.  To attach the head to the body, start at the back bottom of the head’s neck, using  crochet thread and needle do a running stitch around the neck (do not tie off) pull the thread carefully so that it gathers.  Place the front of the head so that it lines up with the front body seam.  Ladder stitch the head onto the body.  Make sure that the teddies head is facing down.

Ears, Eyes and Nose

You can choose what you would like to position first.  I like to start with the eyes and nose first.  Start at the back of the head using a dolls needle and three strands of black thread with a knot in the end.  Put the needle through to where the first eye is to go, and sew a bead down to position the first eye.  Then go through to the other eye position and do the same. Pull fairly tight as doing so, this will make the eyes indented.  Go back and forth from one eye to the other through the bead to secure.  Using crochet thread gather stitch along the bottom openings of the ears and then with out tying off sew the ears down using ladder stitch into there position.

Arms and Legs

First of all leave the legs with R.S.T. position the foot paws on the bottom of the leg, so that right sides are still together.  You may want to hand sew the paws into place first.  Line up the marked lines with the centre front and back seams.  I used my machine to sew these into place, but it is a bit tricky with this bear.  So you may want to hand stitch these on.  For another alternative you could have the wrong side of the chenille as the front of the paw.  Turn the legs R.S.O and stuff, do the same with the arms, close the openings using the crochet thread.  Position the arms and legs to match where indicated on pattern sheet.  Using your crochet thread with a knot at the end, Start from the inside leg or arm and sew to the body going back and forth to secure into place.  Do not go all the way through to the front, so that you just catch it. You shouldn’t be able to see the stitching.

Finishing Off

If you want to give your Rhegan bear a real antique look.  Make a strong mix of coffee and water by using one tablespoon of coffee to 50-80ml of water (depending on the darkness you want to achieve) and either spray or wet your bear with it.  Make sure there are no white patches left.  You can also rub a bit of coffee into the bear while it’s still wet, to make darker patches of dye.  Do as much of this as you want. Then dry your bear in the sun.  I then like to pull bits of chenille out to make it look like it’s been around for many years, do this especially around the face.  To give your bear a different touch you can put a bow around his neck as well, or to make it into a girl, around her head.  Your Rhegan bear is now completed isn’t he cute.  I hope you enjoy him.

 

Regards,

 

Katherine.  

 

 

FLOWER BASKET

 

 

Pattern kindly donated by Julie Gibbs, Simple Stitches

 

Please read all instructions before beginning.

Cut background fabric to 16in square.

Centre pattern onto background and using a sunny window or lightbox transfer the design with a grey lead pencil.

All stitches are as follows:

Used

DMC  

Madeira  

Stitch

Basket    610     2106 backstitch
Roses (snailtrail flowers)      315   0810      backstitch
Circle/cross flowers      902   0601   backstitch
Dotty flowers        400     2304  French knots
Daisies    832    2202    

lazy daisy  *

backstitch *

  310    2400

centres

French knots

Bee      310    2400  

backstitch body

lazy daisy wings

All leaves are stitched with 1505/935 using backstitch, except for the daisy leaves, these are lazy daisy stitches.

Please follow pattern sheet and photo where indicated with a *.

Press completed stitchery with a hot iron, being careful not to scorch the fabric, or pull the stitches.

Trim background fabric back to 10in x 12in. Attach a piece of iron on pellon to the back of the stitchery, following manufacturers instructions. Remove the glass from the picture frame, run masking tape around the edges overlapping both sides of the glass, being very careful not to cut yourself. Place the stitchery right side up on the glass, pull the fabric tight, but not too tight (or you could rip or tear the background fabric) and replace back into the frame. Before putting the backing of the frame back on, make sure that the stitchery is centred in the frame and the background fabric is taut. Fold any excess fabric in towards the centre of the frame, and secure with a couple of stitches if necessary, place the backing board back on and put back into the frame.

Hang or stand your completed stitchery and enjoy!

Julie Gibbs© 2006

All rights reserved.

I am not responsible for individual results or errors. Every effort has been made to make sure there are no mistakes or omissions.

 

SPRING THYME CUSHION

 

 

Pattern kindly donated by Kerry Daly - Primitive Country Treasures

 

 

CANDY CANES

 

 

Pattern kindly donated by Vivian Robinson - Viv's Creations