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The Chocolate Crow Trader
have a free pattern in each edition. We thought you
may care to browse through an archive of previously offered
free
patterns.
You may make these patterns for fun and profit,
however, please give a little plug to the talented designers.
Should you
be requiring any assistance please feel free to contact the designer
direct. |
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If you do not have a PDF reader to
open Free Pattern files in
PDF format, you
can download one free below>>

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download ! Thank you
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FRIENDS HEART

Saltbox Mercantile
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EASTER BLESSINGS
STITCHERy

Appleberry
Farm
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PUNCHNEEDLE
HEART
MAKE-DO WITH
CROW & STAR

Countin' Crows
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Pattern kindly donated by Deb Gough,
Crafty Ole' Crow |
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TAKE TIME TO
SMELL THE
FLOWERS CUSHION
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Pattern kindly donated by Kerry Daly,
Primitive Country Treasures |
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RABBIT
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Pattern kindly
donated by Deb Gough - Crafty Ole' Crow |
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ZARA'S BAG
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Pattern kindly
donated by Katherine Falco |
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REQUIREMENTS :
20cm Floral Fabric
20cm Tie Dyed Fabric
15cm Checked fabric
2 x 4.5cm Flower motives
Matching cotton thread
Sewing needle
Thick Cardboard
Safety Pin
Sharp scissors
Cutting Mat and rotary cutter
Basic sewing supplies
INSTRUCTIONS
Thank you for choosing to make my bag. You can make
this bag to suit your own style, just by choosing
the right fabric. I hope you enjoy making it.
Abbreviations W.S.T- Wrong sides together R.S.T-
Right Sides Together
There is a ¼” seam allowance.
At all times the patchwork technique used is that
the seams are sewn on the outside.
Preparation
Pre wash your fabric first to allow for shrinkage
and then press. Read all my instructions carefully
before starting. Using your cutting mat and rotary
cutter cut out 21 - 2 ½ x 2 ½ inch squares out of
your floral front fabric and cut 6 – 2 ½” x 2 ½”
squares from your tie dyed fabric. Then cut out 27
of the same size squares out of your inside checked
fabric. With the tie dyed plain fabric, make sure
that you don’t cut any extra squares as you will
need the left over material to cover the cardboard.
Bag
Place the outside fabric square on top of the inside
fabric square. When you are choosing the inside
fabric, have in mind that this colour is going to be
seen through to the front. If it has a print on one
side, place with wrong sides together. You should
have 27 squares with two in each.
Using your diagram on the pattern sheet place your
squares out, so they are positioned in the order you
intend to sew. Place the pairs of squares, with two
sets together. (Remember at all times the
patchwork technique used for sewing the bag, makes
the seam edges on the outside of the bag). Sew
down one side using a ¼” seam allowance (PHOTO). I
found it better to then clip your seams as you go
(PHOTO). Clip along using a sharp pair of scissors,
along the raw edges making each space ¼” apart. You
can also sew all your squares together and then clip
when you have completed sewing the bag. Join
all your squares together, first of all doing them
row by row, then sewing one row to the other (still
clipping as you go). Join together your picture One
and Two, which is your front and back. Now sew
together the squares as shown in picture three
(doing one only) for your bag sides and base.
Bag Construction
Pin together your front and back to the sides and
bottom piece. Starting from where the A is marked
match up the A’s together, pin one side at a time.
Sew down, still sewing so that the seam edges sit on
the outside. Sew three squares down (to where B is
marked on pattern) finish off ¼” before the bottom;
this is to make the corner. Then making sure that
the corners are sitting right and the seams match
up, start sewing again, three squares along the
bottom (to where C is marked). Repeat this process,
by progressing up the other side, (to where D is
marked). Do the same to attach the other sides
together. Once again clip all your seams. On the
raw top edge of the bag, sew ¼” from the edge around
the bag top to neaten all the raw edges. When
finished clip along the edge as well.
Handles
From your floral fabric cut four 2 ½ cm x 60cm
strips of the tie dyed fabric and two strips the
same size from your floral fabric. Place two plain
fabric strips with one plain strip, so that they are
on top of each other. Place so that the floral
fabric is in the middle and they are all matched up
evenly. Do this with the other three strips as
well. Knot the ends on both lots, so that the knot
is 4cm from the end. Using a safety pin, put it
through the knot and onto a pillow to secure, this
is so that you can plait the strips together
easily. Start plaiting your strips, plait 30cms
from the knot and then knot the end to finish off.
Do this with your other strips as well. Trim the
ends so there is 2cm at the end and cut two even
nicks into the ends to look like tassels. Find the
middle of the two top end squares on both sides and
mark with a pencil and just below your sewing line
on the top edge mark as well to match up (follow
diagram). Place your knot where marked and then
using a needle and sewing thread with a knot on the
end, start from the inside of the bag and go to the
front and then through the knot, back down through
the bag and to the inside, repeat this until the
knot is firmly secure to the bag. Make sure that
the plaited handle is not twisted and attach the
other end to the other side of the bag. Do the same
to attach the other handle on the opposite side as
well.
Shaggy Look
Making sure that you have clipped all your raw
seams, wet your bag and rinse of any excess water
and dry in the dryer to create the shaggy look. You
may like to repeat this process to make it really
shaggy.
Finishing Off
Using your flower motives pin them in place on the
middle squares and then using your thread and needle
hand sew them onto the bag. Trim any threads or
extra bits of fabric to neaten. Iron your bag, so
that the two sides have folds to look like the
photo. Cut a piece of cardboard 15cm x 5cm and make
sure that it fits the inside of the bag. Do so
before you cover it, just in case you have to trim
to make it fit. Using the left over tie dyed
material cut a piece that is an inch larger all
round, than the cardboard. Using craft glue, fold
the excess material over the sides and glue down.
Allow to dry and then place with good side up inside
the bag. Now you have finished “Zara’s Bag”, I
hope that you get plenty of use out of it.
Regards,
Katherine
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Rhegan Bear
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Pattern kindly
donated by Katherine Falco |
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REQUIREMENTS :
A handsome chenille bear, perfect for a little boys
room, gift or to admire in your own home.
23cm square piece of chenille
Tan Rit Dye, coffee or tea
Fibre fill
Crochet thread
2 small black beads
Pencil or marker
Dolls needle
Black embroidery thread
Basic sewing requirements
Finished height of Rhegan when finished is 16cm.
Preparation
Abbreviations R.S.T- right sides together R.S.O-
right side out.
You can dye the chenille first or after you have
made the whole bear. So first of all prepare the
chenille, I have used Tan Rit dye, follow the
instructions on the packet and then dry in the
dryer. You can also coffee dye him when you have
finished the bear. Trace your pattern pieces onto
paper or cardboard and cut out, making sure you copy
all the markings and openings where indicated.
Double your chenille with R.S.T and pin your pattern
pieces onto the fabric, drawing the pattern pieces
as you go, draw on 1 head, 1 body, 1 paw, 2 ears, 2
arms and 2 legs, once again mark your openings. Take
the pattern pieces off and pin where your pattern
was, so they don’t move when you are sewing or
cutting them. Cut the head and paws on the traced
line. Sew the other body parts on the traced line
using a small sewing stitch(1 to 2). Cut around the
body pieces leaving a ¼” seam allowance where
shown. With the legs sew only where shown, as there
are two openings and cut out with seam allowances
all the way around the leg (where shown). Cut the
bottom of the leg on the line (this is where the
foot pad goes). Cut out on single material your
muzzle.
Head and Body
Place the two head pieces with R.S.T. sew down a
seam at the front of the teddy from A to B (shown
on pattern). Leaving the head pieces with R.S.T,
pin the gusset into place by pinning the centre
front of the gusset to the tip of the nose. Stitch
the gusset into place by sewing down one side of the
head starting at the top of the nose going over the
head and down to the neck. Do the same to the other
side. Clip the curves and turn R.S.O. Stuff the
head and body so they are firm. To attach the head
to the body, start at the back bottom of the head’s
neck, using crochet thread and needle do a running
stitch around the neck (do not tie off) pull the
thread carefully so that it gathers. Place the
front of the head so that it lines up with the front
body seam. Ladder stitch the head onto the body.
Make sure that the teddies head is facing down.
Ears, Eyes and Nose
You can choose what you would like to position
first. I like to start with the eyes and nose
first. Start at the back of the head using a dolls
needle and three strands of black thread with a knot
in the end. Put the needle through to where the
first eye is to go, and sew a bead down to position
the first eye. Then go through to the other eye
position and do the same. Pull fairly tight as doing
so, this will make the eyes indented. Go back and
forth from one eye to the other through the bead to
secure. Using crochet thread gather stitch along
the bottom openings of the ears and then with out
tying off sew the ears down using ladder stitch into
there position.
Arms and Legs
First of all leave the legs with R.S.T. position the
foot paws on the bottom of the leg, so that right
sides are still together. You may want to hand sew
the paws into place first. Line up the marked lines
with the centre front and back seams. I used my
machine to sew these into place, but it is a bit
tricky with this bear. So you may want to hand
stitch these on. For another alternative you could
have the wrong side of the chenille as the front of
the paw. Turn the legs R.S.O and stuff, do the same
with the arms, close the openings using the crochet
thread. Position the arms and legs to match where
indicated on pattern sheet. Using your crochet
thread with a knot at the end, Start from the inside
leg or arm and sew to the body going back and forth
to secure into place. Do not go all the way through
to the front, so that you just catch it. You
shouldn’t be able to see the stitching.
Finishing Off
If you want to give your Rhegan bear a real antique
look. Make a strong mix of coffee and water by
using one tablespoon of coffee to 50-80ml of water
(depending on the darkness you want to achieve) and
either spray or wet your bear with it. Make sure
there are no white patches left. You can also rub a
bit of coffee into the bear while it’s still wet, to
make darker patches of dye. Do as much of this as
you want. Then dry your bear in the sun. I then
like to pull bits of chenille out to make it look
like it’s been around for many years, do this
especially around the face. To give your bear a
different touch you can put a bow around his neck as
well, or to make it into a girl, around her head.
Your Rhegan bear is now completed isn’t he cute. I
hope you enjoy him.
Regards,
Katherine.
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FLOWER BASKET
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Pattern kindly donated by
Julie Gibbs, Simple Stitches |
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Please read all instructions before beginning.
Cut background fabric to 16in square.
Centre pattern onto background and using a sunny
window or lightbox transfer the design with a grey
lead pencil.
All stitches are as follows:
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Used |
DMC |
Madeira |
Stitch |
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Basket |
610 |
2106 |
backstitch |
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Roses
(snailtrail flowers) |
315 |
0810 |
backstitch |
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Circle/cross
flowers |
902 |
0601 |
backstitch |
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Dotty
flowers |
400 |
2304 |
French knots |
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Daisies |
832 |
2202 |
lazy daisy *
backstitch * |
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310
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2400 |
centres
French knots |
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Bee |
310 |
2400 |
backstitch body
lazy daisy wings |
All leaves are stitched with 1505/935 using
backstitch, except for the daisy leaves, these are
lazy daisy stitches.
Please follow pattern sheet and photo where
indicated with a *.
Press completed stitchery with a hot iron, being
careful not to scorch the fabric, or pull the
stitches.
Trim background fabric back to 10in x 12in. Attach a
piece of iron on pellon to the back of the stitchery,
following manufacturers instructions. Remove the
glass from the picture frame, run masking tape
around the edges overlapping both sides of the
glass, being very careful not to cut yourself. Place
the stitchery right side up on the glass, pull the
fabric tight, but not too tight (or you could rip or
tear the background fabric) and replace back into
the frame. Before putting the backing of the frame
back on, make sure that the stitchery is centred in
the frame and the background fabric is taut. Fold
any excess fabric in towards the centre of the
frame, and secure with a couple of stitches if
necessary, place the backing board back on and put
back into the frame.
Hang or stand your completed stitchery and enjoy!
Julie Gibbs© 2006
All rights reserved.
I am not responsible for individual results or
errors. Every effort has been made to make sure
there are no mistakes or omissions. |

SPRING THYME CUSHION
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Pattern kindly donated by
Kerry Daly - Primitive Country Treasures |
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CANDY CANES
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Pattern kindly donated by
Vivian Robinson - Viv's Creations |
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